Blog Design

_________________________________________________________

Wednesday, October 16, 2013

Explorations in Watering and Humidity

This post was started sometime in June 2013 and the last comments were entered recently in October of the same year.  As time progressed, I learned some things and others I had to experiment with to see what would happen.  These are my findings:

_______________________________________


For some time now, I had been watering my orchids by pouring water over the top of the pot carefully avoiding the crown.  However, my results using this method were not great ones.  For one, my media kept drying out a bit too much.  The water kept wetting the media and pouring over the roots without properly saturating the core of the pot.  After all, bark based mixes are water repellent to some degree.

I decided to try soaking the entire pot in water to thoroughly moisten the media and then ensure I drain out all the excess liquid.  The first time I did it, I left the plant in for 1/2 an hour since I never got around to soaking the bark mix prior to repotting the plant.  However, I think a good 5 minute soak once a week with diluted fertilizer should be just dandy.  The key here is to ensure the media is not packed in too tightly and that it drains really well with good air circulation.

After that initial soaking, I was amazed at how my mini Phal's roots had swollen to double their usual size to absorb the water offered.  I realized the way the roots had looked routinely, while I had been watering it in the past, were actually dessicated and slightly shriveled roots.  But because I was so inexperienced in the whole orchid hobby, I was unable to tell the difference.  I had no real point of reference.

In order to soak the orchids properly, I ordered a couple of deep clear plastic saucers.  They are about 6 inches deep and about 8 inches in circumference, which are just great to accommodate any pot I currently have.  They are extremely light for me to take to the office and compact enough to hide away just about anywhere.  And best of all, they are inexpensive enough to be replaced as often as needed, but durable enough for many consecutive uses.

Eventually, I learned that the optimal method of watering for my unique conditions was to provide about 2 cups of warm water for the Paphs and allow the water to drain from the bottom holes.  However, the Phals get about twice that amount of warm water, but are soaked for 2-3 minutes  with diluted fertilizer every other watering.  The rest of the time, they get the same amount of water, but no fertilizer.  On average, I do this for all the orchids twice a week.

The other method I am attempting in order to provide a stable and suitable growing culture for my plants is a homemade humidity tray.  I purchased a sterling silver rectangular tray, which is about 2 inches deep.  I also purchased a bag of large gardening grade Jade stones.  The look is very pretty, but because the bags of stones are pricey and aren't as plentiful as I needed, there are a lot of spaces with just clear water in between.  I did a lot of research prior to setting this tray up and learned that the stones are traditionally placed in the water to simply hold the pot up above the water level.  Other than that, what truly provides the humidity is the evaporation of the water within the tray.

I decided to put this theory to the test.  After all, there is a lot of documentation attesting that the stones must be of a certain size, type, and closeness to be effective.  I placed my electronic hygrometer right next to one of the orchids on top of the pots they are in while sitting inside of the fully assembled humidity tray.  I left the instrument there for a couple of hours to get a range of the difference in humidity during various times of day.  All my readings yielded over 50-55% humidity.  I then decided to test the humidity in the same room, but away from the water.  I got readings in the low to mid 40's.  Obviously, the humidity tray does not provide a huge increase, but it's enough to make things very comfortable for the orchids.  In the winter, when the humidity will most likely plummet when the indoor heating comes on, I will use my trusty humidifier and place it near the plants.  That way, I am covered through the entire year...yay! 

The homemade tray did not end up being an overall success.  The size of the tray was a bit too small and the stones became a headache to keep clean. The water often became murky and smelly and it was difficult to balance the plants atop the stones.  I then ended up buying larger commercial trays and those work really well.  There is no need for stones.  I simply fill them with a couple of cups of water and the water evaporates cleanly in about a week.  I clean the trays every other week to remove any pathogens and mineral stains, and let them dry naturally before I fill them up again.


Since this particular Summer has been a very hot one,  it's been a challenge to provide enough moisture for the Paphs.  They don't like to be sitting in overly dry media.  I have been thinking of misting the foliage on the Paphs in between waterings.  I was still not 100% convinced I was going to go down this route, but I wanted to consider it carefully.  I am very weary of getting any type of crown rot and the word out on the street is that Paphs don't appreciate to have their leaves wet for very long.  However, I have observed that the water tends to evaporate rather quickly in this heat.  As if you can't tell; I was very much torn.  However, I did decide to mist very lightly on really hot days.  The Paphs seems to love it.  I do take great care to mist them from a good foot away and as I stated before very lightly.  I don't want any water to get trapped in the crevices of the foliage.

The last thing I had to consider was air circulation.  I learned the hard way that this is one of the most important elements in orchid culture.  Since they are tropical plants, their native habitats tend to have gentle breezes blowing through the roots and foliage routinely.  In our homes, if the air tends to be stagnant, we need to recreate this condition by artificial means.   An oscillating fan with various settings serves this purpose well.  Until the middle of July, I had been growing my orchids without a fan dedicated to them.  I would simply turn on an oscillating tower house fan we used for our family, but it was stationed about 12 feet away.  It did rustle the foliage, but it did not provide the roots any real air circulation.  Because of this, my plants suffered some root rot, but luckily, I was able to catch the problem in time.

Now, they have a mini tower oscillating fan all to themselves.  Even though my growing area is about 3 feet away from a window, the air does not tend to move much in this heat.  The roots were simply not getting the air they needed.  Once I was able to rectify this, things have been going much better.  The plants are no longer wilting and I am not losing any more flowers prematurely.

The last variable in all of this is the type of media used.  I first tried the regular run of the mill hardware store Phalaenopsis bark mix.  This type of mix just dried up way too fast and when soaked, remained too wet for too long.  My poor orchids did not know what was happening and it was hard for me to discern when to water.  Sometimes, it was 2 times a week, sometimes it was every day, and sometimes the outer media would dry up and the center would remain wet.  I got fed up and did away with that type of mix.

I then tried a mix made from mainly Orchiata for the Paphs.  This change did seem to agree with them and for a good long while, this type of mix worked well for them, but it was rather expensive.  During the course of the Summer, I purchased a new plant that came to me with Mealybugs.  They became a thorn in my side for several months.  No matter what I did, they just came back a few weeks later.

I realized the bugs were hiding in the root system and now all the plants were insidiously being infested.  I ended up having to repot all the plants, I ended up losing one of the Phals to the wretched little parasites.  By then, a friend had recommended Seramis Orchid Mix, which until fairly recently, had only been available in Europe.  I ordered a bag online and used it for the Phals.  This mix did wonders for them.  For the Paphs, I wanted to repot them back in the Orchiata based mix, but did not have enough on hand.  The mix itself is pretty pricey as it is, but tack on the shipping costs, and it really makes you think twice before placing an order.

Out of necessity really, I combined the Seramis and Orchiata mix together for the PaphsIt turns out the Lady Slipper Orchids LOVED this new combined mix...go figure :)

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Newly Improved Overall Culture

Since adding the 2nd lamp with the 40 Watt bulb, the orchids have regained a much lighter foliage color.  I have also begun to rotate the pots atop the humidity trays to ensure they get different light levels as they grow.  The clamp light now has a 60 Watt bulb to compensate for the distance.  Combined, I am providing about 100 Watts of light to my 6 orchids.  It appears to be working well.  The plants have shown some immediate improvement; better color, perked up foliage, and no more mealy bugs.  The last one is the best benefit of all so far. 


The color of the foliage is not as dark as it was initially.  This was a clear indication that overall the orchids were not receiving as much light as they needed.  Once I added that second fixture and bulb, there has been substantial improvement:


I am now watering the orchids twice a week although the mini Phal needs to remain dry for an additional day or two on average.  I run the humidifier on low on most nights.  The plants get a consistent RH percentage of about 50-60.  I am certain through the Winter, I will need to raise the humidifier to be able to maintain the same levels once the heating comes on.

In the past, I always had issues with bud blast even in the Summer, but this is no longer the case.  Once someone suggested  it might have been a humidity issue and I am prone to agree with this assessment.  Without use of the humidifier, RH in my home tends to linger at or below the mid 30's.  Right now, the only orchid I have in bloom currently is Kitty White, but so far, all her buds are still developing and opening slowly.


Even the tiny, undeveloped buds at the very end of the spike are starting to develop slowly.


The grow lights stay on from 6:00 am to 8:00 pm daily (14 hours / day).  On days when enough light comes in through the window, I will slide the table closer to the window's edge to take advantage of the natural light.  But, these days, those days seem rather elusive.  So for now, this seems to be the alternative to making it through the Fall and Winter successfully.  I have also started rotating the plant's physical positions so each plant gets different levels of light, which seems to be working very well.

I also revved up the speed of the dedicated fan I run 24/7 for the orchids.  The air flow is much less static and seems to be benefiting the orchids consistently.  At first, I thought that running it on the second speed setting, would be too harsh for them, but they are loving it.

I feed the Phals every other watering with a weakened solution.  The Paphs are fed monthly with an even weaker solution.  Once a month, all the orchids also get some liquid kelp and a dosage of Superthrive.  The Paphs require a monthly sprinkling of lime as well.

I think I may have finally found what works best for my conditions...yay!

Friday, October 4, 2013

Kitty White's Flowers

After repotting Kitty White and rehydrating her once more, her flower spray began to open.  Here are the pretty blooms:




The blooms haven't opened entirely, but already are starting to look very very pretty!

Tuesday, October 1, 2013

CFL Light Requirements

Lately, since the weather is beginning to change as we approach Fall, I've noticed the sun's rays are becoming increasingly scarce.  I now find myself sliding the coffee table on which I grow, closer to the window.  However, I have been noticing that my plant's foliage is beginning to darken, which indicates more sunlight is needed.  During the Summer, I was using a Feit Electric ESL40TN/D 40-Watt Compact Fluorescent High-Wattage Bulb in Daylight. 

This was fine as long as the orchids were getting a steady supply of sunlight even if it wasn't at optimal levels.  This was when the 40-Watt bulb came into use to supplement the light they got from the sun.  Now, I switched out the bulb to the Hydroponic Full Spectrum 3200K Warn CFL Grow Light Bulb 60 Watt Bulb 60W3200K, which should help during the upcoming cloudier months.  When I unpacked the bulb, it is physically large, but that was expected because of the higher wattage.

During the Summer, I had programmed the grow lamp to come on during the early mornings and the late afternoons when the sunlight is the dimmest.  During the rest of the day, there were at least 3-4 hours when there was a steady stream of light beaming through the windows.  But now, I am considering leaving the light on continually as the sun becomes less readily available.  For now, I am going to make the most of the remaining sunny days, but once these days begin to diminish in number, I will try out leaving the light on all day long to make up for the lack of natural sunlight.

When I went outside this weekend, I noticed that now when the sun does hit the front of the house it has shifted towards the side of the house and away from one available window.  It was then I decided to purchase another lamp.  After the whole fiasco trying to put up the last lamp onto the wall, I purchased a Neewer swing arm lamp for the FEIT 40-Watt bulb.  This way, I can attach it to the coffee table and adjust the lamp whichever way I need it.  What I couldn't find was a reflector that was large enough for what I need.  I may give it a shot to make my own, but in the meantime, I will just wait until the lamp arrives and figure it out from there.

The lamp arrived 3 days later.  It did not come with any instructions, but it was pretty easy to figure out particularly for a complete laywoman, like myself.  I decided to place the new lamp off to the side of the table about 8" above the plant foliage.  The clamp lamp on the wall was redirected towards the rest of the plants the smaller lamp cannot reach.  I think this should be a welcome improvement.